An exciting family journey across the Swiss Alps

There was clearly a goat present in our bedroom. As soon as I heard the wooden shutters on our floor mattresses shake in response to wind-driven wind-chimes above my two-year-old’s crib rattling with gusts from above me rattling, my eyes opened wide as my senses searched the darkness for whatever creature’s sounds had disturbed my restful night’s rest in Switzerland’s central mountains above Engelberg; we were staying in an old barn known as Alp Oberfeld at that time. As it were, technically speaking – above one; more precisely speaking in an altered section of an upper floor in which 100 goats belonging to Kaslin family over summer are milked twice daily using my phone as an alarm clock; I checked out of bed just in time as they started milking them at 6am sharp. My son stirred beside me before giving a soft grunt of wakefulness before falling back asleep for good. As I anticipated his wake-up, however, nothing came. Instead he cuddled under my arm and drifted back off – something unheard-of in our home environment and something I normally wouldn’t expect happening here. I would normally be shocked. On our third and final morning on the Buirabahnli Safari trail, however, everything returned to normal with stunning magic. Engelberg is known primarily as an avid skier’s destination thanks to Titlis (3,238, metres high) as well as easily-accessed glaciers such as Leschke. The newly unveiled 29-mile (46km) hiking route by Alp Oberfeld’s tourist office marks an effort by them to put their area on the summer adventure map as well. Attractions near Alp Oberfeld include The Barn at Alp Oberfeld for some outdoor fun! Photograph by Oskar Enander/Engelberg-Titlis Tourismus Company. Buirabahnli refers to a series of small cable cars built across Switzerland after World War II for transporting machinery and supplies into farms located along peaks. Over 100 such structures were eventually created following this model with custom designs becoming iconic cultural landmarks in Switzerland. However, as maintenance costs increased and roads were built more frequently over time, their number in this region, once affectionately known as “Valley of Cable Cars”, has significantly declined over time. They continue to provide essential transportation in remote mountain regions without road access – especially where none currently exist – which Nadine, volunteer from Alp Oberfeld confirmed when we spoke. They provide lifeline access in places without road access such as here where there still no direct road link exists between stations like this and road networks beyond them. As evening approached on our second day in Engelberg, the goats led us along an exciting new trail dotted with waymarked signs sporadically waymarked from Engelberg train station through eight cableways to Buirabahnli Pass (starting from 47CHF/PS41). We spent hours tracking down resident goats as storm clouds swirled overhead. GPX files and decent maps can be downloaded directly from Engelberg official site as useful resources to navigate along this circuitous trek (complete with useful GPX files and decent maps available from official website) begins from Engelberg train station and connects 8 cableways through special Buirabahnli Pass which begins from Engelberg train station (useful GPX files and decent maps available there). We spent hours following them so closely, that when storm clouds began rolling in. This route traverses stunning landscapes and promises an authentic view into local farm life and tradition; plus animal sighting opportunities along the way for what amounts to be an inexpensive Swiss escape. Trail runners and challenge enthusiasts might complete it within 12 1/2 continuous hours; for an immersive experience it may be wiser to break your journey up into three stages with two overnight stays at farms or mountain huts along the route. Reserving beds ahead is recommended due to limited spaces. On our morning walk from Berghof Brandlen to Oberrickenbach, cowbells chimed as we passed fields filled with Alpine clover blooming purple in hue and clusters of vibrant yellow trefoil buds blooming bright yellow. At first sight I felt transfixed. We stopped for lunch among the trees before continuing our walk alongside a riverbed that snaked alongside a small waterfall with stunning views back toward Engelberg that stopped us dead in our tracks. Once back on our walk the cable car started with an unexpectedly powerful pull and soon enough we were off, sailing over an edge while my toddler giggled joyfully with delight! Swiss brown cows grazed peacefully under towering buttresses of rock near Lutersee lake near which was hidden an century-old mountain shelter complete with honesty shop that offered refreshments! Skiers use this area in winter; in summer the farmer who tends to the cattle stocks up on local Alpine cheese (Alpkase), Hauswurst (homemade sausage), wine and Schnapps for visitors like us – including Schnapps of course! At that moment we found out first cable car. “What should we do?” was my query to my partner whose grasp of Swiss-German was no better than mine. We eagerly boarded and eagerly anticipated something exciting happening – until instructions in Swiss German made no sense whatsoever and instructions weren’t in English either! “Why am I here?” said she vexatiously to me as we eagerly anticipated our ride homeward bound! Each Buirabahnli on this public safari network is electric and features various controls; when our guide picked up his internal phone to request help from Tongi family whose cableway it was, one of Swiss brown cows that roam Alpine pastures emerged to greet him! Photograph by Manfred Thurig/AlamyThe cableway began with an audible click, quickly shooting across an expanse of rock face as my three year-old toddler giggled happily and giggled excitedly in delight. As trees passed us by quickly, Mrs Tongi from Rugisbalmbahn Farm smiled warmly while patting my son’s head before taking our tickets and transporting us on her second cableway towards further into the valley. When we reached its bottom end a local woman was heading uphill for hiking. “Toni used this bag for school,” she revealed. After watching her fly back up the hillside, we watched in admiration as she set back off again. Three more Buirabahnlis later, we arrived at Berghof Brandlen – an organic farm operated by Ueli Schmitter himself, still out in his field as his daughter Rita welcomed us with large bowls of curry and cold beer for us all! Buirabahnli used to bring everything, including cows, from Switzerland directly to their farm in Austria, she explained. We eventually came upon Alpbeizli Haghutte where we learned it is cash only. As neither my partner or I had Swiss francs to exchange, we were ready to leave empty-handed when a passing couple offered to exchange euros instead; soon thereafter we left with cheese toasties and big smiles all around!The author with her partner and their 2-year-old son. Photograph by Phoebe SmithOur next stop was Bannalp Chruzhutte, another dorm-style mountain hut equipped with its own restaurant. Rita’s mum Isabelle welcomed us with mountain tea and homemade cake before our son relaxed on his hammock while chickens ran beneath his bed. Finally we reached Alp Oberfeld where Trudi, Thomas, and their four children (Kaslin family) were busy preparing our evening meal. Since 2010, they’ve been coming here every summer to offer B&B-style accommodation to hikers looking for refuge from city life below. That night we all watched as goats came home for milking before retreating into our little dorm above them as mist crept across the field. On our final walk back down, next day took us through a path cut deep into sheer rock face like tunnel. As part of our explorations we explored Brunni mountain area (a popular skiing hub during winter and hiking hotspot during summer with toboggan runs, cafes and free playground) as well as Buirabahnli Bordbahn which had previously been unsuitable for humans but since its renovation with local support has enabled two families with farming operations near Engelberg to get their kids safely to school from farms without long and difficult hikes into Engelberg. As we walked the last couple of kilometers into Engelberg, my mind wandered back to my alarm-call-shouting morning alarm; all the while looking forward to sleeping soundly in an hotel bed that night. Still, knowing our family adventure on these old cableways was contributing to keeping mountain culture alive while giving hikers a taste of its magic would help me sleep peacefully at night. My trip was organized through Engelberg Tourism who offer the Buirabahnli Pass for 47 Swiss Francs (PS41), providing rides on each cableway as well as accommodations from Berghof Brandlen at PS49; Alp Oberfeld B&B from PS106 with free under-4 care (please visit berghof.ch); Ski Lodge Engelberg double rooms from PS123 (bellevue-terminus.ch); double rooms in Ski Lodge Engelberg from PS123 per double (bellevue-terminus.ch). For further details visit myswitzerland.com